Uneven cuts usually result from misaligned rails or an unstable work surface. Make sure your router sled platform is level using a digital or bubble level. Also, secure your slab tightly to avoid shifting during the pass.

For slab flattening, we recommend a 1.5" to 2.5" surfacing bit like the SpeTool ATS-coated W05003. It ensures smoother passes, better dust clearance, and reduces tool wear — perfect for beginners.

Tear-out is preventable with the right approach:

Use a down-cut spiral bit for outer passes

Tape slab edges or apply a thin wood glue barrier

Slow down the final pass speed for clean results

Yes — planers require at least one flat side and can’t handle irregular or epoxy-filled slabs. A router sled is ideal for live edge slabs, epoxy river tables, and warped boards.

To secure your slab properly:

Use wedges and double-sided tape

Clamp with router sled jig accessories

Add foam board spacers to mark X/Y axis

Never rely on just gravity!

Not all routers are equally suitable. Make sure your router fits the router sled plate dimensions or use a universal blank router plate to customize. Ideally, choose a plunge router with variable speed control for consistent performance.

Burning usually means your router speed is too high or your bit is dull or dirty. Try lowering the RPM to 10,000–14,000, clean or replace the bit, and reduce feed rate.

Absolutely. Router sleds create tons of fine dust. A dust collection shroud like the SpeTool S01002 reduces over 90% of mess and protects your lungs and workspace.

It depends on the slab's warping and thickness, but usually multiple light passes are better than a single deep cut. Aim to remove 1/8” to 1/4” per pass to avoid router strain.

They often refer to the same tool, but technically:

• The router sled includes a full rail/track system
• A slab flattening jig can be a simpler DIY track or frame.